Domaine Rotier (Review 1 of 2)

The vineyard of Domaine Rotier is on the left bank of the Tarn River where the soil is predominantly alluvial. Winemaker Alain Rotier has 30 ha. Varietals are Durasse, Syrah, Brocal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Len de L’El (loin d’oeil far from the eye or bud). 70% red and 30% white. Mauzac does not grow in the more acidic calcareous soil. Rotier is a family concern, which has improved the quality, since the vineyard was reclaimed from cooperative management.

In contrast is Domaine De La Barthe, one of the pioneer estates of Gaillac, with over a 750-year history. M. Jean Paul has 48 ha on the right bank of the river, which produces 50 hL/ha with rootstock of Fercal, which is suited to the pH of the highly calcareous soil. Varietals include Merlot, Syrah, Brocal, Durasse, Cabernet, and Gamay. Canopy is VSP and vigor is a problem necessitating leaf pulling, shoot pulling, cluster thinning and hedging. Cover crops help reduce vigor initially; however the vines compensate as the roots grow deeper. The climate is akin to the mid-Atlantic having influence from the Mediterranean rainfall of 650-1000mm. Winter temps as low as –10 to –12°C. Summer average high of 32-35°C with summer lows of 16-20°C. Altitude ~200 m.

Vinification Blanc Sec and Blanc Doux: No cold maceration. SO₂ is added before the temperature reaches 28-32°C. Yeast (UC Davis strain) is added and nitrogen is used as the blanket gas. Fermentation is in concrete tanks as well as stainless steel; the tanks are temperature controlled using heat exchangers; lots are kept separate in differing size tanks. Élevage is mostly in barrels; 15% new oak for 10 months, battonage 2 x per week. He stops the fermentation using a cross flow filter at an alcohol concentration of 13%, at times leaving a residual sugar of 13%. A final sterile filtration is performed prior to bottling. Mauzac is often infected with Botrytis depending on weather conditions

Brocal: the grapes are destemmed with a ‘light’ crush, no cold maceration and no punch down, delestage is used over a 3 hour time frame for 4-5 days, usually 1-2 times per day. ML occurs after yeast fermentation and to some extent is controlled by SO₂ concentrations of 80 mgs/L during fermentation. The wine is pressed 3-5 weeks after fermentation using a cross flow filter on the press fraction, which enables them to use the whole fraction. They use microoxygenation after maceration.

Tasting notes: Red: 40% Brocal, 20%Syrah, 40% Durasse: peppery cassis, reglisse (liquorice).
Mauzac: 100%. Apples lees taste, minimal tannins.
Mauzac/Sauvignon Blanc (50/50%): more acidic, minimal oak.

Domaine Rotier (Review 2 of 2)

After a fun and informative tour of the delightful town of Cordes-sur-ciel, we drove to Gaillac and to the Domaine Rotier. Our hosts were the owner of that Domaine, M. Alain Rotier, whose vineyard and winery are on the left bank of the Tarn, and M. Jean Paul whose vineyard is on the right bank.

The right bank is river soil and therefore gravely. M. Rotier has 38 ha, 70% in red and 30% in white grapes. The former are: red Duras, Syrah and Broucol, and a little Cabernet. The white are: Loindeyeux and Sauvignon Blanc. [Loindeyeux so named because the first several buds do not produce fruit, so the fruit appears “far from the cordon.”] No Mauzac because wrong soil; better on left bank which has high calcium. Rotier vineyard was previously a coop producing poor wine, now family owned and striving for better quality.

On left bank, M. Jean Paul’s family has 48 ha, and has been in this area for 750 years. Reds: Duras, Broucol, Merlot, Cabernet, Syrah and a little new Gamay. White: mostly Mauzac; no Sauvignon Blanc, as a market issue, and also not classic.

Climate: rain mostly from ocean, 600-1000 mm/yr. Often no frost, or not cold long. Highs of 32-35°C in July, but cool at night 20°C. Ave 16-20°C. Altitude ~200m.

Wine: cellar just for whites, both sweet and dry. Vinification in cement and stainless, classic. Ten months in barrels. Filter sweet at 15% alcohol to stop fermentation. 15% new oak, not excited by new oak for whites.

Loindeyeux is sensitive to Botrytis, and wind will also promote dehydration leading to high sugars. Using more Botrytis since ’94. Mauzac: generally alcohol not above 16%; aromatic but not very sweet, and no Botrytis.

Vineyard: low trellis because of the wind. Grass every other row. Yields: Fer other reds, 45 hL/ha (~3 tons/acre); for sweet wines, 1 ton/acre; if go higher, lose concentration. Two clusters per shoot. A lot of hedging. Try to control vigor. Deleaf in July, then green harvest to 2 bunches/shoot. M. Jean Paul likes large caliber canes - some huge, bull-like, and he likes more vigor than M. Rotier does. Rootstock: “fercal” for everything. Not permitted to spray after harvest: “damages soil and people.”

Tasting: Comments overheard: #!.Mauzat 100%, TA 4.5; apple, vegetal; acidic but not integrated; no oak taste. #2. Mauzac/Sauvignon Blanc 50-50. Comments overheard: more body; “I like it.” Lunch: Sweet wine: meaty, earth, melon, pumpkin, deeper fruits.

Château Le Roc (Review 1 0f 1)

In the afternoon, we went to Fonton and Château Le Roc, which grows Negrette. From a book read aloud by Andrew: Small compact berries; violet, licorice, black current; likes southern regions; dislikes humidity; thin skin; a little acid; rich in taste, lacks backbone; blended with Syrah, Cabernet, or Gamay. Tour given by Pierre Rive. Altitude 780 feet. Soil: “When you go to hell, you will see the same clay soil.” Some soil is “dead,” good for making bricks. Top is clay, then hardpan. Grass in rows allows rain to penetrate. Zero fertilizer: just plow grass back every 2-3 years. Rootstock 3309. Rain: ~ 700 mm/yr. Not tolerant of wet; grapes tend to swell after rain. Syrah: “ten times easier.” Grows: Negrette, 15 ha = 60% of his produce; Syrah, 20%; cab, 20%; a few Fer. Finish pruning in March; bud break at end of March. Yield: 40-50 hL/ha, limited for quality, but “illness will come before that limit.” Mainly treat with copper, 5-10 times per season. Needs poor soil; good soil causes more infections.

A variety of comments were overheard while tasting. Several bought wine afterwards.

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