Sunday, 15 December 2002
Domaine Jaboulet (Hermitage), Domaine Grippa (St. Peray, St. Joseph), Roman heritage lives on in the hills of Hermitage
Journalists: Andrew Hodson and Emily Hodson

Domaine Jaboulet (Review 1 of 2)

While in the Northern part of the Rhône valley we visited Domaine Jaboulet Aine (Hermitage) in the morning and Domaine Grippa (St Peray, St Joseph) in the afternoon.

The Jaboulet family domaine dates back to 1844, and is 100% family. The winery and estate is now in its eighth generation with the current owner being Paul Jaboulet. Lauren Jaboulet was our host. His family owns a total of 100 Hectares consisting of Hermitage and Crozes Hermitage in addition to purchasing grapes from local producers. Jaboulet is a major producer of both white (Marsanne and Rausanne) and red (Syrah La Chapelle Hermitage). Lauren claimed that throughout the years they have been making wine by its taste, not based on analysis and that the three generations work together to combine experience and to continue making wine in the old tradition. He stated that the 'analysis is not enough;' the tradition of winemaking in his family is 'like a recipe that is passed down through the generations.'

He stated that the method of winemaking has not changed at Jaboulet, although they have made some changes in their white wines because people do not like oxidation much anymore. They use a refrigerated press, which is not well utilized in changing temperature, but will maintain a temperature very well.

Vineyard Practices

Vineyard techniques have also not changed very much over the years except that now they do use helicopters to combat the threat of Odium. They did have some problems with Eutypia, but none with Eska. They use an integrated pest management program (decreasing application depending on timing) in the vineyard. Ten times a year they have to bring the soil back to the slopes because of erosion (900-1000 mm rain/year). The influence of the river is important for the climate because the Rhône River brings the wind. The ripening of the grapes is influenced by the hot summer winds that travel through the valley. The winds from the south are very important to the character of the Syrah causing ripening and shriveling of the fruit and providing the characteristic oxidative aromas of Syrah. Harvest is usually between the 10^th - 20^th September. Harvest parameters clearly depend on the weather, typical potential alcohol being between 12 and 14%. They do not have the same clones as are planted in the south. They experimented with a new clone about ten years ago, which was more phenolic, more fragile with disease, and with much larger yields. The average age of the vines is 60-65 years, though they do have some plants that are as much as 120 years old. These plants do not produce as many clusters (2-3). These old vines and many of their other older vines are not planted on rootstock because the soil is sandy. The new vines, are however, planted on rootstocks. The whites are planted on 110 and the reds are planted on 3309, 16149. Rootstock selection was based on soil and varietal. Last vintage 2002 was difficult because of rain, approximately 50% of the crop having been lost. The last time they had such a bad season was in 1993, and they did not release an Hermitage that year. Average winter lows are 28-30°F.

Crozes-Hermitage White
A 50-50 mix of Marsanne and Rausanne. Rausanne provides alcohol and is sensitive to alcohol (also difficult to grow), Marsanne the flavor/aroma and acidity. The grapes are destemmed, without crushing and cold soaked for 1-2 days, then fermented in barrels or tanks according to conditions, the majority is barrel fermented for 10-40 days with temperature control of 7-12°C. The yeast is not natural; the goal is to ferment using a Bayanus strain yeast at low temperature over as long a time as possible. Nitrogen levels are not routinely used in determining the yeast nutritional needs. There are high acid levels with tartaric acid levels of 2.8 g/L . Generally malic acid levels are low. MLF is used according to need. Most wine is kept in new oak for 6-8 months on the gross lees, without battonage, this according to the wine maker gives a 'fat' texture to the wine. They purchase 100 new barrels each year.

We tasted two white Hermitages, both of which were in the middle of ML.

Crozes-Hermitage Red
Syrah - The fruit is sorted in the vineyard. They do not cold soak, and they use natural yeasts which start fermentation spontaneously. They do not supplement with yeast nutrients, but do add SO₂ during the maceration stage (2.0 g/hL) in the form of SO₂ gas solution. This is in order to keep the potassium ion concentration to a minimum. They do not use microoxygenation, but they do incorporate a process called soutirage, which is the French equivalent of splash racking. They do this 1-3 times over a 12-18 month period depending on the development of the wine. MLF is usually completed in the tank. Remontage, the process of pump over, is performed 2-3 times per day. These pumpovers are determined by tasting which they do twice a day. They are interested in the first 12-24 hours of maceration as it is important for extraction of color. If it is too cold, they don't see a good color extraction. They are also interested in the formation of alcohol because it stabilizes the color. Fermentation usually lasts 5-6 days. They do not modify the vintage by working with the wine. They are interested in having differences in the vintage, not only the vineyard.

In comparing the different red wines of different appellations such as Cornas, Côte Rotie, St. Joseph, and Châteauneuf-du-Pape with Syrah as the common varietal, the belief is that the terroir is the critical factor in determining the nature of the wine. Variations in conditions of the terroir are the result of multiple factors in the soil and climate, which determine wine quality. The terroir in the upper Rhône valley is made up of combinations of decomposed granite, schist alluvial, and loess type soils. Granite based soil produces higher acidity and less alcohol whereas alluvial soils give higher alcohol and less acidity. Fruit character and yield are related to soil type average yields on granite being 30-45 hL/ha with a planting density of 8-10,000 vines per hectare. The grapes are harvested and during élevage the wines are gradually blended together until the wine reaches the desired character of the appellation, so-called élevage-en-courant.

We had lunch at a wine bar, with tapas-like food. We tasted seven wines from the area. The owner of the bar, Fabien Louis, then took us on a tour to the vineyards where we were able to see La Chapelle. He explained that there were 7 hills in Hermitage with four main producers that owned 80% of the appellation.

Domaine Jaboulet (Review 2 of 2)

The family domaine goes back to 1844, being 100% family owned now into the eighth generation, the current owner being Paul Jaboulet. Lauren Jaboulet, who provided the tour of the facility, met us. They own a total of 100 hectares consisting of Hermitage and Crozes Hermitage in addition to purchasing grapes from local producers. Jaboulet is a major producer of both white (Marsanne and Rausanne) and red (Syrah La Chapelle Hermitage).

Lauren claimed that over the years the winemaking techniques were the same, only the equipment was modernized, in particular reference to temperature control such as a refrigerated press and efficient heat exchange methods. In making the wine the family relied on sensory evaluation, which took precedence over analytical methods. Each year the conditions produce a challenge to the family to create the character of the appellation.

Vineyard Practices

Odium was the major threat for which they sprayed using a helicopter because of the nature of the steep slopes. They had some problems with Eutypia but none with Eska. No organic wines; however they were using Integrated Pest Management (IPM).

In the vineyard soil erosion was a big problem necessitating soil reclamation on a constant basis.

Average rainfall is 900-1000 mm per annum.

The ripening of the grapes is heavily influenced by hot summer winds that blow up the Rhône valley in mid-August. The winds from the south are very important to character of the Syrah causing ripening and shriveling of the fruit and providing the characteristic oxidative aromas of Syrah. Harvest is usually between the 10th - 20th September.

Harvest parameters clearly depend on the weather, typical potential alcohol being between 12 and 14%.

They have experimented with different clones over the past 10 years, but they experienced problems with virus infection and over vigor.

The age of the vines varied: they had used the technique of layering the older vines, some of which are as old as 120 years, many between 60-65; the majority however are in their eighth year

Rootstock is a combination of SO4, 3309 and 110 Richter, rootstock selection was dependent on soil type and varietal.

Last vintage 2002 was difficult because of rain, approximately 50% of the crop having been lost.

Average winter lows are 28-30°F.

Crozes-Hermitage White
A 50-50 mix of Marsanne and Rausanne. Rausanne provides alcohol, Marsanne the flavor and aroma. The grapes are destemmed, without crushing, and cold soaked for 1-2 days then fermented in barrels or tanks according to conditions, the majority is barrel fermented for 10-40 days with temperature control of 7-12°C.

The yeast is not natural; the goal is to ferment using a Bayanus strain yeast at low temperature over as long a time as possible. Nitrogen levels are not routinely used in determining the yeast nutritional needs. There are high acid levels with tartaric acid levels of 2.8 g/L. Generally malic acid levels are low. MLF is used according to need. Most wine is kept in new oak for 6-8 months on the gross lees, without battonage, this according to the winemaker, gives a 'fat' texture to the wine.

Crozes-Hermitage Red
Syrah - fruit sort is carried out in the vineyard. No cold soak, natural yeasts are used in the fermentation usually starting spontaneously, no yeast nutrients are used, typically the juice pH is 3.8-4.0. SO₂ is added at the maceration stage (2.0 grams per hL). They prefer not to use potassium metabisulphite (KMBS). SO₂ solution is made from gas; in so doing the potassium ion concentration is kept to a minimum. No microoxygenation; however soutirage, the French equivalent of splash racking, sometimes 1-3 times over a 12-18 month period again depending on the quality of the wine. MLF is usually completed in the tank. Remontage, the process of pump over, is performed 2-3 times per day.

In comparing the different red wines of different appellations such as Cornas, Côte Rotie, St Joseph, and Châteauneuf-du-Pape with Syrah as the common varietal the belief is that the terroir is the critical factor in determining the nature of the wine. Variations in conditions of the terroir are the result of multiple factors in the soil and climate, which determines wine quality. The wine is made in the vineyard as any Frenchman will tell you.

The terroir in the upper Rhône valley is made up of combinations of decomposed granite, schist alluvial, and loess type soils. Granite based soil produces higher acidity and less alcohol whereas alluvial soils give higher alcohol and less acidity. Fruit character and yield is related to soil type; average yields on granite being 30-45 hL/ha with a planting density of 8-10,000 vines per ha. The grapes are harvested and during élevage the wines are gradually blended together until the wine reaches the desired character of the appellation, so-called élevage-en-courant.

Domaine Jean-Louis Grippat (Review 1 of 2)

Winemaker Bernard Grippa family owned and run domaine. We started off by tasting a 2001 St. Peray consisting of 80% Marsanne and 20% Rausanne yielding 70 hL from 8000 plants per ha, tank fermented with MLF in the tank then 20% into new oak, kept on the lees and stirred (batonnage) 2x / week depending on the quality of the wine. Then we tasted a wine that was made up of 60% Rousanne and 40% Marsanne. It was barrel fermented and stirred based on tasting an average of two times per week. This wine was in 100% new oak. Bernard Grippa explained that the Marsanne grape was responsible for the alcohol and the 'fatness' of the wine, whereas the Roussane was responsible for the tannin structure and acidity. They are not often both good in the same vintage. The Roussane is harder to grow, as it is more susceptible to Odium and mildew. The wines may go through a period maturation when the French describe the wine as being 'asleep' or sedated during which they may or may not go through a reductive phase. Syrah in particular can get over ripe as a result of the hot summer winds. Other combinations of Marsanne and Rausanne are used to craft the wine. Bernard Grippa explained that Marsanne was the most fragrant of the wine, weather conditions at harvest are crucial, for example, in 1993 one week before harvest they had 150 mm of rain resulting in a 70% loss of harvest.

Bernard also explained that it is easy to make the grapes round and ripe, but they can not make a soft wine in N. Rhône because they can not get the ripeness every year. Because of this they opt to keep their style one in which they do not rely on over ripening.

We then tasted two more whites:

St. Joseph red wine from Syrah: it takes 10-15 years for the vines to reach the maturity to produce quality wine. He discussed canopy management to some extent noting that he leaf pulls in May and hedges the vines if there is still growth in late July or early August.

On average there are 100 days between fruit set and harvest. The main problem he finds with Syrah being lack of water or too much water. The wine is made in three tanks using natural yeasts with the wine maker being responsible for punch-down (peage) which in some cases is still done by the old fashioned foot stomping method with pump over (remontage) 3 times per day. In contrast to Jaboulet, he blends the wines as a single event rather than an on-going process

We tasted five red wines while in the cellar:

St. Joseph 2001 100% Syrah

St. Joseph 2000- 100% Syrah

St. Joseph 1996- 100% Syrah

St. Joseph 2001- 100% Syrah

St. Joseph Berecaut 1983

Addendum: Labor cost in the North Rhône valley is higher as a result of the terrain average for the wine industry being one man per 10 ha, while in the North Rhône, it is 1 man per 1.5 ha.

Domaine Jean-Louis Grippat (Review 2 of 2)

Winemaker Bernard Grippat family owned and run domaine.

St. Peray, a white wine consisting of 80% Marsanne and 20% Rausanne, yielding 70 hL from 8000 plants per ha, tank fermented with MLF in the tank then 20% into new oak, kept on the lees and stirred (batonnage) 2x / week depending on the quality of the wine. The wines may go through a period maturation when the French describe the wine as being 'asleep' or sedated, during which they may or may not go through a reductive phase. Syrah in particular can get over ripe as a result of the hot summer winds. Other combinations of Marsanne and Rausanne are used to craft the wine. Bernard Grippa explained that Marsanne was the most fragrant of the wine, weather conditions at harvest are crucial, for example in 1993, one week before harvest, they had 150 mm of rain resulting in a 70% loss of harvest.

St. Joseph red wine from Syrah: it takes 10-15 years for the vines to reach the maturity to produce quality wine. He discussed canopy management to some extent noting that he leaf pulls in May and hedges the vines if there is still growth in late July or early August.

On average there are 100 days between fruit set and harvest.

The wine is made in three tanks using natural yeasts with the winemaker being responsible for punch-down (peage), which in some cases is still done by the old fashioned foot stomping method, with pump over (remontage) 3 times per day. In contrast to Jaboulet he blends the wines as a single event rather than an on-going process

Roman heritage lives on in the hills of Hermitage (Extra Review 1 of 1)

The imposing granite hill of Hermitage rises above a bend of the Rhône river at Tain l'Hermitage.

The Hermitage appellation occupies a mere 152 ha; however, for many centuries, the reputation of the red wine from the Syrah (= Shiraz) vines of this appellation has far outweighed the volume of wine produced. For example, in the 18^th and 19^th centuries, prices for red Hermitage were higher than those of first growth Bordeaux. There are various legends concerning the origin of the name of this appellation: most references suggest that it derives from the word for a hermit (ermite).

The Romans were the first to recognize the viticultural potential of this site. There are many remains from the Roman occupation. For example, the city of Vienne just to the north is particularly rich in Roman architecture. There one can find the Temple d'Auguste et Livie (25BC) and the Théâtre Romain (one of the largest amphitheaters in Roman France, restored in 1938).

The small town of Tain l'Hermitage is located on the left bank of the Rhône, 75 km due south of Lyon. At this point the river takes a left hand turn for just a few kilometres as it diverts from its southerly course to the Mediterranean: this has resulted in a steep south-facing slope, approximately 200m high, with excellent thermal properties. Although southeasterly and southerly aspects tend to predominate, some of the planted land at the top of the hill is relatively flat. The warmest sites are said to be at the western end of the hill.

The Crozes-Hermitage appellation comprises those vineyards not on the hill itself: it is a much larger vineyard area than Hermitage, forming an arc around the hill, mainly to the north and east, and a small amount of flat land squeezed between the base of the hill and the river.

Climatically, Hermitage is in a transition zone between the relatively maritime climate of the southern Rhône (typified by Châteauneuf du Pape which has a continentality¹ of approximately 12.5°C) and the continental climate of the very northern part of the Rhône (typified by Lyon with a continentality of 18.4°C). Growing season day degrees² for Hermitage is 1451, with 1648 sunshine hours. The most comparable Australian regions based on these criteria are Frankland (WA) and Padthway (SA). On the basis of MJT (estimated as 21.5°C), Hermitage is similar to the Barossa and McLaren Vale (SA) regions. Growing season rainfall (April to October) and annual rainfall are very high at 625mm and 904mm respectively. The growing season rainfall is three times that of the Barossa: this amount of precipitation is equivalent to a Barossa vineyard receiving Riverland rates of irrigation.

Geologically, the hill is a combination of granite and quaternary delta deposits, with Pliocene clay on the eastern side. At the top are deposits of loess containing some calcareous material.³ Soils are generally shallow, and quite variable according to location on the hill. 'Les Bessards', at the western end, is regarded as one of the best climats: it has a sandy gravel soil overlying granite. The soils of the lower slopes have higher clay contents. Soil erosion is a major problem, due to a combination of high rainfall, exposure and steep slopes. The stone terraces, which are a prominent feature, were constructed many centuries ago to counter erosion.

Only three varieties are permitted for the Hermitage appellation: Syrah, Marsanne and Roussanne. In the 1990's, approximately 80% of the area comprised Syrah with the remainder predominantly Marsanne. In the past, Roussanne was more important, but in the 20th century it was almost entirely replaced by the higher yielding, and less odium-susceptible, Marsanne. The best white Hermitage is considered, by some, to be an equal blend of the two varieties. However, there can be a wide divergence of opinions on this matter: Paul Jaboulet uses between 35% and 50% of Roussanne in his Hermitage Blanc whereas Chapoutier dislikes it and uses none at all.⁴ All varieties will ripen, on average, in mid September. Both white and red varieties may be found on all parts of the hill.

For red Hermitage, Syrah is allowed to be vinified with up to 15% of white grapes, effectively Marsanne. In practice this rarely happens now because white Hermitage is in demand in its own right. By comparison, it is still a standard practice to add a small amount of Viognier to Syrah for the red wine of Côte Rotie, produced just to the north of Hermitage. Marsanne is the main variety of white Crozes-Hermitage.

The majority of vines on the steep slopes are low-trained bush vines, generally with a single stake 1.4 m high. Spacing is 1.5 m row x 1.0 m vine. Pruning is to 2-node spurs with 2 to 4 spurs per vine. Shoots are trained up and tied to the stake during the growing season, and topped at approximately 1.7 m above the ground. Most of the operations must be carried out by hand due to the steepness of the slopes. On the flatter land, VSP trellising is more common: vines are unilaterally cordon-trained with spur pruning, and row spacing is wider.

The yield limit for appellation Hermitage is 5.8 t/ha. Enrichment with grape concentrate is permitted in some years so long as the resulting wine is not higher than 13.5% alcohol for red wine and 14% for white.